Speaking of the Zonda my setup tips for it in Drag: (it's still slightly work in progress, but this set up can still atleast get you around 5.7 to 5.8 seconds)
Stage 4 all. No re-stocking. The Zonda needs a heck lot of grip!
Spoiler 206. Zones: 0, 20, 0, 10
Stock Widebody Kit
Hood: whatever you want really.
Suspension now: F Compression: 0
R Compresion: + 10
F Rebound: 0
R Rebound: + 10
F Spring: 0
R Spring: + 10
Ride Height: + 10
F Anti-Roll bar: 0
R Anti-Roll bar: 0
F tyre Pressure: 0
R tyre Pressure: + 5 (I know this sounds strange, but I will explain at the bottom of this post)
TOE: 0
Camber: 0
Caster: 0
Steering Ratio: 0
Engine: CAM Timing: 0
Start Boost: + 10
End Boost + 10
Nitrous Pressure: 0
Nitrous Jetting Flow Rate: 0
Gears and Brakes: Leave all at default!
Wheels (this is very important!): I'm going to use the example of the BBS GT wheel zones:
Front: 0, 50, 0, 100
Rear: 0, 50, 100, 100
Okay the reason why there is more pressure at the rear is because depending on how much grip is available it can actually slow down a car.
Tyres work in two ways to get grip: adhesion (the stickiness of it) and deformation (how it changes shape over bumps of which when it does so, it reduces energy and grip increases). Deformation can also be altered with tyre pressures!
The grippiest tyre would be super sticky and changes shape so easily a baby could change it! However, this means the car means a huge amount of torque to move so it's illogical. So there has to be a balance in essence.
Now with a bit more pressure, the Zonda can still get the grip it requires for it to work, but now because the tyre doesn't deform as much so therefore less grip there as well.
If you can't understand that, don't worry! Even tyre engineers still find it a struggle to understand it sometimes because of so many factors.
Status = Part Time. [b][color=red][size=12]I am the car expert! So I've been told. lol[/b]
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