Stage 4 upgrade locations

Im sticking with the times murcie, if theres a new GTR, I want it

(it wont be my main speed car, just for wrecking around, spare cash lying around)

On 30-Jan-2008 Murcielago said:

You should seriously give the R34 a go, with the Stage 2 suspension it does not catch air AT ALL, which is especially important on Nevada C with that massive hill before the first checkpoint. Whereas all the opposition have to brake, you can fly through that section at 350kph :D.

Well the way I managed to sort that out was to actually heighten the ride height instead because of the size of the bumps.

Yes, but when I went through that specific course (Nevada B, not C as I said) with stock suspension, I could take the hill full throttle and not catch air, but when I put stage 2 on I had to brake to 250kph to prevent the car from totalling!!

Well I'm fine about it. Just got to find a decent Speed car.
EDIT: And OMFG that Skyline R34 rocks!!!!!!

« Last edited by Kenny 2x4 on Feb 2nd 2008 »

On 01-Feb-2008 Kenny 2x4 said:

Well I'm fine about it. Just got to find a decent Speed car.
EDIT: And OMFG that Skyline R34 rocks!!!!!!

you get your skyline from the super promotion?

No, I bought it myself. I had about $300,000 at the time so plenty to buy it and upgrade it.

I just doing the super promotion to get the Pre Tuned Skyline

I haven't bothered doing the Super Pro Challenge day yet. Been doing the Elite King Race days.

I'm currently Speed and Drag King, but I'm still not good enough at drift to take down Aki.

What car do you have for it right now?
Oh and set up wise all you need to change really is the Ride Height, CAM Timing, Start Boost and End Boost. Maybe Brake Bias depending on your style, but other than that nothing more.
Stage 4 locations wise.
G-Effect 3: the 1st, 3rd and 5th choices are your best bets.

On 03-Feb-2008 Murcielago said:

I'm currently Speed and Drag King, but I'm still not good enough at drift to take down Aki.

Use a Nissan Silva, I bought one after selling my GTO, put stage 2 parts on it and it handles nice in tight parts, I thought it would disappoint me, but im gonna take on Aki and see how it goes. Peace out

I've bought myself my own RX7 after discovering the joy of other suspension settings. It handles a lot nicer now.

On 03-Feb-2008 davy14uk said:

Use a Nissan Silva, I bought one after selling my GTO, put stage 2 parts on it and it handles nice in tight parts, I thought it would disappoint me, but im gonna take on Aki and see how it goes. Peace out

I will say this:
I used the Silvia in my old save file and it was pretty good especially in the faster and sweeping corners, but in the tigheter ones compared to Aki's RX-7 it will struggle.

On 04-Feb-2008 Murcielago said:

I've bought myself my own RX7 after discovering the joy of other suspension settings. It handles a lot nicer now.

What do you mean "other suspension settings"?
I used to set this really extreme suspension where it was quite stiff and so I would be able to throw the car way off, but still have control of it, but then that was losing me points for some reason.
If the RX-7 isn't satisfying you, get the 350Z. It's so consistent.

I didn't actually know you could edit things like camber, caster, toe and steering response.

You're kidding right?!
Don't bother with camber, caster and tow, but steering response though if your driving style demands it.
Do you know if the Dodge Viper SRT10 is worth it at all in the game for anything?

In the early stages (Battle Machine and ReACT) it's good for grip but after that not really.

Oh and those settings make a pretty good difference, seriously. And the tyre pressure helps too.

Well of course.
Tyre pressure actually alters the "size" of the tyre if you looked at it from the side.
In addition, me being me a complete crazy man and having made F1 my life and understanding it like the back of my hand. The help is actually quite right when it talks about Toe, Camber and Caster (albeit caster isn't explained as fully. I will do so at a later date).
Toe-in and Toe-out is literally what it means if you think of the front two wheels as feet and the front of it as the "toes".
Camber: the vertical and horizontal amounts that the wheels are angled of which can either be adjusted minutely or a large amount.

We are actually going quite a bit off topic now btw.

Well have you found any more Stage 4 parts? I sure haven't, because I have them all anyway.

I know what toe does (thank you Gran Turismo 4) it alters the response of turning in the car, a front toe-out bias results in understeer, and vice versa. I know this because I have a rear bias in all of my showing off (in other words drifting) cars in GT4.

With camber like PS says its best to have it neutral or slightly negative for twisty circuits, don't adjust it too greatly otherwise you'll lose acceleration and braking won't be as effective as normal.

I can't remember from Auto Salon mag what caster does so I'm taking PS's word for it that it increases straight-line grip (is that the opposite of camber??)

Off-topic: Toe-out means you'll have better turn in. -_- Because the wheels will point outwards so the slightest turning of the steering wheel will induce a turn.
Toe-in is the understeer, but it's more stable.
Actually you can have very little camber for a twisty circuit. It depends on the cornering force the car will experience. So if it was a fast one then you will need quite a lot of Camber.

On-topic: I think the 2nd and 4th choices in Noise Bomb should get you some stuff.